Paradisa??

Before setting off for India, we registered with an international organization of organic farmers (WWOOF) with the intention of volunteering on some farms. We thought this would break up our travels and provide the opportunity to get to know an area better and learn about the local farming practices. The owner of a coffee and spice plantation responded to us that he was in need of help, and we thought it sounded like a great opportunity. Yet, when we found ourselves at an upscale resort nestled in a spectacular green valley we were a bit surprised. Paradisa resort was going to be our home for 2 weeks, but we only made it for three days. Expecting simple accomodations and food, we found ourselves being served by the wait staff and receiving many of the perks of the resort. While this sounds ideal, it wasn't what we had anticipated and we didn't feel comfortable with the arrangements. In exchange for harvesting coffee, we were getting meals prepared by the head chef...even though we had to eat them at a table in the corner of the kitchen instead of the dining room. The village women that we were harvesting coffee with made 170 rupees/day (~3USD), and so it could not have been advantageous putting us up and feeding us instead of providing work for 3 more villagers. We were also collecting this 'organic' coffee in old paint cans with paint caked on the insides. The owner successfully evades our questions of where he sold his coffee, and didn't seem to have a straight answer for any of our questions. Not speaking Malayalam, we couldn't interact with any of the women workers, nor the supervisor. We felt as if we were stepping on toes and taking work away from them instead of providing any valuable service. The final straw was when the owner actually asked us to buy wine for him (with his money) because he does not have a liquor license for his resort, and if we bought the wine suspisions wouldn't be raised at the liquor stores. All in all, it appeared to be a shady operation that we didn't feel comfortable contributing to, so we opted to continue on down the road and leave Paradisa behind.

Coffee and spice country on two wheels

Continuing to explore Kerala, we made arrangements to work on a coffee and spice farm up in the hills. The bus rides to and from are an experience in themselves. We experienced the beautiful countryside by two wheels (or so it felt), but we certainly weren't on a motorcycle. The busses barrel wildly along the narrow roads that weave through the hills. At times it seems almost like a competition. However, it seems quite ironic that while I feel like we are flying along on two wheels around curves, the 120km journey still takes 4 hours! The busses creak and moan while coughing out clouds of black smoke as they struggle up the hills, and then they make up for lost time on the way down, trying to make the trip in a personal best time. The goal is to get a seat on the bus because standing is a full body workout to keep yourself from flying down the aisle or into someone's lap. The tiny women look stand so effortlessly though! All the while, we are climbing past rubber plantations, spice gardens dominated by large bushy cardamom plants, shady coffee plantations with bright red fruits awaiting harvesting, and endless fields of tea trees with the bright green new growth on top. The landscape is exquisite and calms the heartrate a bit from the blind curves and steep drop-offs. Not everyone makes the trip without incident though. We have witnessed several accidents that make me feel justified with the elevated heartrate throughout the rides...see video! Despite the dangers, I thoroughly enjoy the excitement of the ride and the views from the open windows.

Christmas in Kerala

We spent the days leading up to Christmas in the backwaters of Kerala, which was a fun place to be since Kerala is one of the few Indian states that is predominately Christian. So, it was an appropriate spot to get a bit of Christmas cheer. Decorations were simple, people would hang large colorful paper stars from their houses. Many of the houses along the canals had their stars lit in the evenings, which was a pleasant sight. The other evening activity was caroling! Groups of young folks would come around to the houses and sing their Malayalam (the local language) Christmas carols. There was a santa in every group of carolers with a suit on, often a big belly, and a face mask with bright pink skin. He would carry a staff with colorful balloons tied to the top of it. As the group would sing the upbeat carols and lay a mean percussion rhythm on a plastic jug, santa would dance around wildly. A more professional group came by raising money for a local school. This group came with several drums and trumpets and put on a very lively show! Christmas eve at the homestay, the family set off fireworks and had sparklers for the children. All along the canals you could hear fireworks set off in the distance. It was a festive atmosphere and we swapped stories with other travelers of what we would be doing back home to celebrate the holidays.

Backwaters

We have heard time and time again that one of the things that cannot be missed while traveling in India is a trip on the backwaters of Kerala on a houseboat. Well, I don't want to say that all those people were wrong because I do not know if that is the trip of a lifetime. However, when we saw the ubiquitous houseboats clogging the backwater canals from the seats of the public ferry, we all felt quite relieved that we had not gone that route. Instead we opted to stay in a homestay in a small village along the maze of canals. This area is all built on reclaimed land that has been inhabited for centuries. We saw villagers that still work as mud diggers that dive down and collect mud from the canal floor that is used to reinforce the adjacent land. It is a beautiful area that is unfortunately being exploited by tourism that threatens the livelihood of the villagers that call the area home. Many villagers still wade into the canal to bathe, wash clothes, fish, and of course play. We spent a few days enjoying the serene setting from the banks of the canals instead of drifting by on a huge houseboat. We took walks exploring the island we were on. The small villages stretched along the canals, the lifeline of the area. Then the palm trees opened up upon huge bright green rice paddies speckled with white herons. It was an idillic setting and I can understand why everyone is encouraged to visit this lush area...I just hope that its magic isn't lost as the result of tourism that has blossomed out of control.

Kerala style cooking

While in Kochi, we thought it appropriate to take a cooking class to learn how to prepare this wonderful Keralan cuisine. There were 9 travelers who showed up at Leelu's house to take her course within the confines of her small kitchen. Leelu was a delightful woman, happy to share her love of food. She prepared for us (and shared her recipes!) Kerala Fish Curry, Thoran (Veggies cooked with shredded coconut), Sambar (Lentils with veggies), Green Peas Masala...and best of all Chapati (flatbread)!! Check back for recipes--I hope to share them with you all soon!

Midway through the demonstration, the powercut came early and Leelu had to cook by candlelight. Sweat ran down my face as we crammed around her gas stove in the still air. We all dined together around a huge table. The power returned just as we were finishing our delicious meal. It was a delightful evening that I hope we can replicate at some point back in the states.

Cultural Mosaic

Oh my, I fear I have let the blogging slip a bit while we have been enjoying the beautiful state of Kerala. Known for its spices and coffee, there are hints everywhere of its colonial past as various cultures vied for the highly desired spices. British, Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese....to name a few left their mark in the architecture, religion, food, etc. Our first stop, Kochi, was a perfect example of this fusion, a principal trading post after the spices were brought down out of the lush green hills. Quiet, narrow streets bring the tourists in droves...and we were no different. We enjoyed several quiet days in the lazy town center, caught a traditional Kathikali theatre performance, and visited the (now touristy) spice stores displaying large sacks of black pepper, cardamom, ginger, chili peppers, star anise, and the list goes on.

Riding the rails

We had a humbling experience riding the rails in the second class unreserved car. We have ridden in the sleeper class with a reserved seat in the past which is quite comfortable, however this was just as insane as we had suspected it would be. We were to make an eight hour trip down to Kochi, and since we failed to plan in advance, the only tickets left were unreserved. As the train pulled in, we joined the mob that began pushing their way to the narrow doorway. As a woman, I actually got some preferential treatment, which meant less pushing as shoving. The car actually wasn't too packed, so we tossed our packs on the luggage rack and climbed onto another luggage rack ourselves (following suit from other passengers). We sat facing four fellows that seemed comfortably seated on the second tier, however our bodies don't have the flexibility to cram into such small spaces. A few stops down the way, several passengers climbed off and I erroneously started to think that we might have a comfortable overnight ride afterall. The next major town, a huge crowd poured in and my hopes of increased real estate vanished. A fourth guy joined our bench much to our chagrin. With three of us in a row, we could shift our positions and find some degree of comfort. With four, we were packed like sardines and it was impossible to find a comfortable position...and WE actually had seats! People were crammed in the aisle, sitting on laps, holding themselves up as they fought sleep and the rhythm of the train. For us it was more of a novelty to experience what it was like to ride in an unreserved car, but for millions of people this is the transportation that they use daily. It was quite a humbling experience and made me appreciate many of the long, bumpy bus rides--which is a luxury by comparison.

The demands are growing

Through various conversations and newspaper articles, it is devastating to hear about the environmental issues facing various regions. The Coorg region, known internationally for its rich biodiversity is threated by poaching, illegal forestry, deforestation by locals for farming, and water issues. Water from this lush region is piped into Bangalore, and as its population continues to swell, the water demands will exceed what the region can provide. This will threaten the livelihood of locals and the survival of the forests. The locals already talk of changes that they have seen as a result of climate change. The weather patterns are changing, with hotter dryer weather further compounding the issues facing the region. This is happening all the world over, but when I experience such a magical place like this, it scares me to think what will become of the area. 

Another issue is granite, which is being mined illegally in many parts of the south (and I am unsure about the north). During our visit to Hampi, we frequently heard blasts off in the distance as people blew up the huge beautiful boulders scattered across the landscape. The granite then is shipped off to the US and Europe to become lovely countertops...just feeding the demand. People are chased off their land by big companies that take as they wish without any sort of compensation. 

Before trekking we were in Mysore, which is known for its beautiful sandlewood carvings. Sandlewood is now very rare and is protected (at least here in India), however the local shops are full of extravagant carvings and inlayed pieces. No one mentioned where the sandlewood came from...

The biologist in me enjoys seeing these places firsthand to try to understand the regional threats in our increasingly globalized world...and hopefully can help make me be a wiser consumer so as to help preserve these special places and local cultures that have little or no voice against the goverment and big business.

Coffee and spice country

After Bangalore, we retreated to the serene hills in the mountains. I've been trying to muster the energy to write about our incredible experience, but sitting in a hot internet cafe staring at a computer screen is quite a stark contrast to the beautiful landscape we were experience....but here goes.

We made our way up into the Western Ghats again to do some trekking in the Coorg region. It is one of the world's biodiversity 'hotspots'--a very rich area, biologically speaking, that is home to a diversity of flora and fauna. We arranged to trek with a guide for 3 days, staying in homestays each night. We spent our days hiking through rice paddies just being harvested, coffee and tea plantations interspersed with cardamom and peppercorn...and we hiked through dense green forests, displaying every shade of green imaginable. Our guide, Vijayakmar, was a wise man whose knowledge of the area was great. He has been guiding for 20 years, and although he hasn't ventured far from the region, he had a worldly knowledge about him. As we grew to know him better, we also fell into conversations ranging in topic from religion to the world economy. And, he had enough trivia questions to stump us throughout the trip. In his polo shirt and polyester bell bottoms, he was the tortoise setting a constant pace whether hiking across a rice paddy or up a steep hillside. 

Each day it was a long busride to get to our hiking destination for the day. We would cram into the local bus, but it was quite carefree just waiting for Vijak to say the word that we had arrived at our destination. The music would whine loudly as the bus slowly chugged up the hills with great effort, and raced down them with reckless abandon. But once we climbed off the bus, we would see few people aside from some workers out in the fields. 

Our first night we stayed with an older couple that had a small coffee plantation (the plants full of the bright red fruits) surrounding their house with white washed walls and clay tile roof. Interspersed with the coffee plants were banana trees, bamboo, cardamom and pepper vines creeping up host trees. A lone mango tree stood proudly over the other plants. The smiling couple proudly brought us a cup of coffee upon our arrival. Coffee beans were scattered on a tarp in front of their house drying, which became a familiar sight as we ventured through the area. Our lunches were prepared for us, wrapped in a banana leaf inside a newspaper. Each day we anxiously unwrapped our lunch, eager to discover what was inside. At meal time, there was complete silence as we adeptly use our right hands to shovel in rice and curry sauces into our mouths. Once satiated (and quite happy!), the conversation resumes.

The second day of hiking, we visited an incredible waterfall. From the top of the waterfall, the small stream fell more than 100 ft and the mist played around in the wind. It felt as if we had the lush valley all to ourselves. Vijak patiently waited until we had our fill and we continued on. That night we stayed in a hut, which was part of a 'campground'. Apparently we were outside the high season, as we were the only ones to stay there. The three of us slept on a long platform bed that creaked and moaned with every small movement we made. Our light came from a small propane lantern, and it was the ultimate escape from the bustle of the city. We are our meals at a woman's house just up the road from the huts. When we wandered up for dinner, it was already dark and the room was lit by a small candle that sent light dancing around the room as the wind blew in through the open window. She and her mother worked busily in the kitchen and brought out an amazing meal. Communication was minimal, but we exchanged many smiles to express our gratitude for the wonderful food. Although she was cooking these meals to supplement her income, she had a warmth about her that made us feel very welcome in her modest home. The long wooden table was pulled up next to her bed, which served as a bench for us to sit on. She brought out half of a big beautiful squash to show us what we were eating for dinner. Once again, the food disappeared quickly from our plates, and we said goodnight so that the two could enjoy their dinner also. As we stepped out of their house under a blanket of twinkling stars, tears came to my eyes from the woman's warm smile and warm food. It didn't matter that we couldn't speak her language or that she does this for the money-her sincerity and kindness overwhelmed me. As we returned to the sagging bed in our little hut, the kerosene lamp hissing as it cast its light on the small room, I felt happy and fulfilled. 

Our last day of trekking, we had a different guide and two Indian tourists also joined us. Although it was tough to adjust to having a new guide (who smiled a lot but shared very little about the region), the couple had much to share about the region. Coming from Bangalore with an interest in science and ecology, they shared so much with us about the region. We hiked up through dense forests that opened up on a grassy ridgeline, where the wind swept past us. In all directions you could see the layers of hills, seperated by lush green valleys. The hills faded away into the hazy horizon. 

Each day of trekking we ventured to a different part of the region and thus further experienced the diversity of the area. It was a highly rewarding couple of days that showed a very different side of India from much of what we have experienced thus far.

The busy streets of Bangalore

After a week in Hampi, it was almost refreshing to return to India. Hampi was more of an escape from India, hanging out with fellow travelers and lazily passing the hours away. So, arriving in the wee hours of the morning to the hustle and bustle of Bangalore actually excited me. The chaotic pace of the cities, that initially made me question traveling here on our first days in Mumbai, was a welcome change of pace. (I still recognize that I am not a city person and can only handle the fast pace living so long...) So, we spent (a mere) two days exploring the city. It was a highly rewarding time, as Bangalore has several huge parks and green spaces that you can retreat to when your heart is racing from dodging the traffic or when you need escape the exhaust from the streets.

We spent a morning exploring the city market which is a cramped concrete building full of tiny stalls with beautifully stacked fruits and vegetables, piles of flowers being strung up for offerings at the temples or for wedding ceremonies, brilliant cones of dyed powder (used for the bindi, or dot, women place on their foreheads). It was a delightful smorgasboard of colors and sounds as people darted up and down the narrow, littered aisles through the stalls.

We also visited a wonderful Botanic Gardens, where I reverted to a biology nerd and got lost in all the wonderful trees, that were mostly new to me.

And a trip to Bangalore would not be complete without a trip to NASA, which we were told was the first pub in Bangalore (opening about 20 years ago). It was retrofitted to be a giant spaceship, and the waiters were even in flight suits. The tables were all small spaceships, and supposedly they put on a mean laser show that we somehow missed. It screamed of the 80s, and it was hard to believe that we were actually in India while sipping on our beer.

The Kindness of Strangers

While in Hampi, I had a conversation with a fellow about a book entitled The Kindness of Strangers, which is a collection of stories in which travelers received help from a perfect stranger. Our time in Bangalore, the next stop down the road, was full of such experiences. A friend in the states had put us into contact with her Indian collegue, VJ, who lives in Bangalore. VJ and her husband, Raghu, picked up the three of us and spent their entire afternoon taking us around the city to experience some sights and sounds that we wouldn't likely find on our own. We toured several temples, where the couple extensively explained the Hindu religion and practices. They kindly answered many of our questions that had been accumulating over the first month of our travels. They drove us around some of the IT campuses, which are plentiful in Bangalore. Tall, shiny new buildings towered over the busy street below. Raghu, who grew up in Bangalore, has witnessed the explosion over the past decade or so as the IT industry has set up shop in the region. He spoke of playing cricket as a kid and being able to stroll across the street without looking to grab the ball. Now you have to wait for several minutes for a break in traffic to race across the road. AND this is on a street that is now one way because there was two much traffic as a two way street. As we drove out to the IT campuses, he spoke of how the area was all forest when he was growing up. Having them as a 'tour guide' offered us so much more insight to the changes Bangalore has seen in recent years. Finally, they treated us to a lovely dinner, much nicer than most we visit on our 'budget' travel wallet!! After a month of traveling, it was so nice to have a casual evening with some 'locals' that were willing to show us around. At the end of the evening, it was amazing to think that we had only just met them several hours earlier. We just hope that one day we have the opportunity to return the favor!!

Photos galore

Thanks to Tim, we have a photo sharing site set up. I don't have the patience to upload too many photos to the blog! So if you are wanting to see more photos, visit www.picasaweb.google.com/motionsintheoceans

Bouldering the days away

After several days exploring the ruins around Hampi, we met several rock climbers. Hampi is a bouldering (climbing without ropes) haven. Many people we have met came here just with the intention of rock climbing...and their abilities obviously exceeded ours. So we have joined a group of climbers the last couple of days, early mornings and late evenings, climbing some incredible granite boulders. It is not only great to be out climbing, but also has taken us to some amazing spots for viewing the sunrise and sunset. The rest of the day is spent lazily reading a book in a hammock or meeting some new travelers. The other morning as the day (and thus the rock) were heating up, we were wrapping up our climbing. Nick, an English fellow who has taken us under his wing and shown us around the area, asked if we were interested in splitting a cake. Katie and I exchanged confused glances but agreed that a cake sounded quite nice. A few moments later, an Indian man strolls around the boulder we had just finished climbing. He has a large bag with an assortment of cakes that his wife had baked fresh that morning. The chocolate banana cake caught our eye and we savored the cake after a rewarding morning of climbing.

Caucasian celebrities

We certainly weren't the only ones exploring the vast ruins. There were many school groups making their way around the ruins also. As we would stroll up to a temple, we would pass a long line of school kids in their uniforms. As if part of a dare, one student would timidly say 'hello!', and the next thing we knew there was a cacophony of excited voices greeting us once the ice had been broken. Next they wanted to shake our hands and introduce themselves. We would be surrounded by 20 or more students, and many small brown hands would be grabbing anxiously are pale white hands for a quick handshake accompanied by a large satisfied smile. We have found this with many of the temples and tourist sites we have visited that people want to take advantage of the opportunity to practice their english and say hello....and take a picture of us. 'Shall we have a snap??' the older ones will ask us. It got a bit strange when we had teachers blowing whistles and shouting instructions to their students. Next thing we knew the whole class would be lined up or seated around us for a group picture with us right at the center. Then the teachers would shake our hands and ask where we were from, grinning as big as most of their students. The first few times it happened it was novel and fun, but it grew tiresome by the end of the day. I don't think I enjoy being a celebrity!! Our last experience, after a long day in the hot sun, we got caught up in a group of older students along a small trail. We couldn't bike quickly past them, so a few jumped on the back of our bikes and rode along with us, while others fought for a chance to get a ride with us, each vying for our attention. The pictures explain it all far better than I can....if only they knew we had starred in a bollywood film also!!

Miss India Gold

For about 60 cents, we rented bicycles to explore the area. Katie and I weren't allowed to get the mens cycle, we were ushered over to the pink and lavender 'Miss India Gold' bikes. As Tim ran off to our room to grab something we forgot, we hear a pop followed by a loud "ssssssss". His rear tire goes flat and his bike falls over. Luckily there was another bike for him to take instead. Our single gear Miss India Gold bikes-although the wheels weren't quite aligned-allowed us to set off exploring. The ruins stretch over an area of about 35 square kilometers, which is much more easily covered on two wheels than by two feet. One day we just explored the countryside, riding through the small villages surrounding Hampi. We rode through brown, dry rice paddies adjacent to moist vibrant green ones. Shady banana plantations and palm trees also lined the quiet road. As we rode through the villages, the children eagerly run along beside us (optimistically hoping we might toss them a rupee or two), and the old women watch us with curiosity from the front steps of their modest homes. Many men and women are out in the fields bagging up the rice or spreading it out to dry, watching their herd of goats grazing, or collecting bananas to take into town. The hillsides are full of activity as people are out working the land.
Another day we take the bikes over to the other side of the river to explore the ruins. We spend an entire day biking from one temple to the next, many dedicated to different Hindu deity. I found myself imagining the bustling marketplaces and temples when Hampi was an important commercial center. The stone walls of the temples are covered with elaborate carvings that have withstood the elements for over 600 years.

Sunrise with the monkeys

After much badgering from our new-found friend Ganesh (aka 007, as he first introduced himself), we agreed to a trip out to Hanaman (the monkey god) Temple to catch the sunrise. He had followed us around for 2 days, as if he was our best friend...and his tactic worked--he slowly wore us down. He met us at 5:30 in his autorickshaw. Tim, Katie and I still bleary eyed in the wee hours of the morning, climbed in the backseat and we began bouncing along the narrow dirt road. There was only a hint of light in the sky as we arrived at the temple. We climbed 500+ steps to arrive at the whitewashed temple perched on the top of the granite hillside. The caretakers were just beginning to stir, and the roosters were beginning to crow awaking the valley below. Light was creeping into the hazy, smoky sky...but there was no sign of the sun yet. The caretaker came out and tossed some food out. Within moments, the area was crawling with monkeys--stretching and yawning as they came out of their slumber. Then suddenly the sun appeared, a giant swollen red ball magically shining through the haze well above the layers of hills off in the distance. As the sun shone down on the valley, the noise of busses and motorcycles joined the crowing roosters and barking dogs. The valley below began to crawl with activity, as we watching from up above with the monkeys.

Temples and boulders

We have found a little slice of heaven in Hampi. Hampi is scattered with ruins from the Hindu civilizations that created the commercial trading center of southern India in the 14th and 15th centuries. Magestic temples and bazaars are hidden amongst the gravity-defying, boulder-strewn landscape. Hampi itself is a small town that exists on the current tourism brought by the ruins. The main stretch is abuzz with guides, shops and restaurants all vying for your business. We are staying along a small strip of guesthouses on the opposite side of the river, accessible only by a small old boat. The town is crawling with travelers, many of whom find it hard to leave this beautiful site, so we have found a nice community here. By day we set out to explore the amazing temples and scenery by bicycle or foot, and then the evening is spent sharing dinner with some new friends. The area is scattered with rice paddies, banana plantations, palm trees, and huge granite boulders. It is a quiet, sleepy town compared to the busy cities we have experienced thus far. So, now it has been nearly a week that we have spent here in Hampi, relishing every moment of the tranquil setting.

A bump in the night

From the beautiful beaches of Goa, we boarded a 'luxury' overnight bus to Hampi. Full of tourists heading from one beautiful site to another, the bus was full of conversations in different languages before people started to doze off during our bumpy, noisy ride. With so many tourists on board, the bathroom breaks were frequent...the bus pulls to the side of the road, and people dart out into the fields and ditches to relieve a full bladder. At some point, there was a stop but no one was getting off. We peered out the window and there was another bus from our same company halfway off the road, and passengers were climbing out the door as we arrived. A crash had just occurred between the bus and a cargo truck. People from our bus wandered out and started bringing out toilet paper, gauze, even baby diapers to dress some of the cuts and bruises people had suffered. With all my luggage underneath the bus, I was absolutely helpless with nothing to offer people. We were there for an hour or so as they rigged another cargo truck to pull the truck away from the bus. It took a while for the roap to hold, with 20-30 men shouting orders all at the same time. Around this time we started to hear news that the bus driver was still stuck in the bus, his legs were smashed and he could not get out. Katie found someone who spoke Hindi and went up to inquire if he needed pain killers, but he refused them. The next step was using the same ragged old rope to basically pull off the front of the bus. The rope broke a time or two and they kept using a shorter piece of rope to attempt the process again. Finally, with a crunch of metal, the front of the bus pulls off and the bus driver is quickly removed. Things begin moving quickly, all the passengers are called back to our bus. A cushion is set on the aisle floor and the stoic bus driver is laid down and wrapped up in blankets donated by all the passengers. It is another three hours on bumpy, pot-holed roads before we reach a hospital. Tim and I were kicked out of our seats, and were crammed into the back of the bus. I continued to watch the bus driver, as he lay there with his lips moving rapidly...seemingly in prayer, but who knows, he could have easily been cursing the truck driver for the circumstances he ended up in. It was 5 am by the time we reached the hospital, and several hours that the driver had been silently awaiting help. He was taken into the hospital, everyone returned to their seats, and we continued on down the road to Hampi. It was a surreal, helpless night. Between language barriers, not having any equipment, let alone medical knowledge...I had a knot in my stomach through the whole affair wishing there was something more I could do to help. It made me appreciate so much our emergency response system in the US. Without cell phone reception, and being so far from a hospital, there was little to do except work together to help save this guy's life. It makes you realize all that you take for granted, but is also a testimony to people pitching in and helping when the situation calls for it.