A glimpse back at India

Being in one spot for nearly two weeks as we wrap up our time in India has given us a chance to plan the next steps on our journey, but more importantly it has given us time to reflect on an amazing 5 months here in India. In that time we were able to explore such a large part of this diverse country, yet it feels we barely scratched the surface. And now, just when we feel like we are really getting savvy--from rickshaw drivers to bus and train transportation, touts to shopkeepers--it is time to ramble on. As is human nature, we have a tendency to want to put things in a box, to capture it or summarize it in a few words...and that is just impossible with India. Our journey here has been an emotional one for me, as my emotions often mirrored the intensity of our experiences. I did not express much emotion in the blog, as my emotions often fluctuated wildly on a daily basis. Everything is in your face here, and sometimes it would feel as if the only privacy we could ever find was in our hotel room. So, what about the people living on the street? All of their daily activities from eating to bathing, etc are carried out right on the street corner in plain view of everyone. In a country whose population is due to surpass China's in the next few decades, those are the realities of people trying to survive. And if I came up with one generalization for Indians, it would be that they are entrepreneurs--an adaptation in such a densely populated country where people are fighting to survive. People aren't waiting around for jobs to present themselves, but rather going out and creating their own opportunities...a spirit I hope to carry with me after our travels have ended. The overall intensity and pace of life is chaotic and hard to swallow (although somehow it works!)...and certainly hard to keep up with at times. And somehow all of this makes you feel so very alive and free as you are traveling amidst all of this intensity. To let go of all the rules and regulations that tie us down and to just live life is so refreshing. To witness how things are done here and realize how detached we are from the things that we purchase and use. We watch women collect cow poop from the street and place patties out in the sun to dry for their fuel, women collecting huge bundles of sticks on their head to make that evening's meal, people picking through huge city trash piles separating organic material from recyclables and trash, and electronics shops overflowing with fans and devices that are being fixed instead of discarded...and markets full of delicious fresh fruits and vegetables out in the open air! Everything still feels much more connected here, thus you see where things are coming from, and unfortunately you also see where they (the trash) go. This is quite the change from the out-of-sight out-of-mind mentality we can so easily fall into back home. The trash is one of the realities that I have struggled with the entire time I have been here--from the trash clogging the waterways and turning the water black to trash piles with plastic bottles being burned on the corner to cows and goats eating cardboard... The realities of life are gut wrenching and challenged us on a daily basis. Of course, as budget travelers we tended to be in the midst of these aspects of India a lot, and did not experience the part of India that is stepping up to the world stage as an upcoming leader. Without a doubt, India is a place to be experienced, as troubling and challenging as that may be at times...pictures and words fail to capture the vibrant nature of life here (and the chaos that is ever present). It has truly been a rewarding experience the warm welcome we continually received across this vast country--such a vibrant, resilient culture that have been tested and challenged throughout India's long troubled history. I will be leaving India a stronger person myself, although I still unsure how the impact of our experiences here will manifest itself and affect my life once I return home.

On the lighter side!!! In a nutshell...we have become quite adept at eating with our (right!) hands, crossing multiple lanes of traffic with a Heisman trophy-esque stature, shrugging off cows sauntering down the road, doing our laundry and taking showers out of a bucket (though not at the same time!), squatting to go to the bathroom, walking away from rickshaw drivers when they ask for an outrageous sum of money, being in photos (we must have hundreds floating around out there!), forcing our way up to an open window with defensive elbows at the ready (as there is no such thing as a queue here!), and chugging down sugary chai!

So while we have many treasured memories and experiences we will be taking with us, we are eagerly looking forward to our next adventure--trekking in Nepal. We are so excited to set out leaving all the roads and traffic (aka exhaust clouds) behind to trek through mountain villages and immerse ourselves in the clean air of the Himalayas.

FYI--We are setting out on a 3 week trek in Nepal...so while my blogging has been a bit lacking lately, it's about to get even worse!! It will be several weeks before we return to civilization again and find ourselves back in communication!!

Test drive on two wheels

With our departure date from India nearing, Tim was running out of time to get his fix driving the classic Indian motorcycle--an Enfield. Tim toured the factory when we were down south and his head naturally turns every time we hear the thumping engine approaching. The British bike has been manufactured here in India since the 50s with virtually no changes to the model. Tim has tried several times to rent one, but usually smaller bikes and scooters comprise the rental selection. So, he finally tracked one down to rent for a day to satisfy his curiosities. The kick start proved a little tricky on the beast, but once it turned over the familiar thumping bounced off the buildings. We spent the afternoon cruising along the winding roads following the meandering path of the Ganges. It felt nice to be on a motorcycle again, especially such a classy looking one....but I was certainly glad that we decided not to tackle India by motorcycle! Tim seemed quite pleased to spend at least one afternoon cruising around on two wheels...especially an Enfield!

A beautiful thunderstorm

As Tim and I were strolling to a meditation session the other night, we set off following a familiar path down along the Ganges. It is a barren stretch, and was quite dark as a storm was beginning to brew. As we made our way down the path, the wind picked up and blasted us with dust and sand. Lightening flickered first off in the distance and then dramatic bolts lept across the sky. The energy continued to build as the wind was channeled up the valley as the Ganges tumbled down valley lit, its choppy water caught in quick glimpses with the flashed of lightening. We paused on a bench along the trail with the Ganges coursing in front of us, the lightening bolts flashing all around us, and the cool wind swirling through the valley. Then the first huge icy raindrops fell. We sat for a while soaking up the magical energy that only a storm can bring and enjoying the cool air it was ushering in. The skies opened and the rain quickly began to drench us. We hopped back on the trail and our pace quickened as we approached hotels and restaurants...until we were running for cover in one of the restaurants. Drenched and delighted by the storm, we opted for food instead of meditation. This was just the second thunderstorm we have seen since we arrived here in India, so it has been so wonderful to experience rain!

Searching for a guru

We are winding down here in India and have spent our last week or so in Rishikesh, where the plains meet the foothills of the mighty Himalayas...and the beautiful Ganges carves its path through the green hills. It is a beautiful part of the country, but Tim and I have a hard time really getting into this place. It is a mecca for spiritual seekers, particularly western ones of the hippy variety. The dusty roads are crawling with westerners who came to India to find themselves, and the skeptic in me can't help but roll my eyes. There is an ashram around every corner and a sadhu (holy men) begging on that corner. The pedestrian bridges crossing the Ganges are a perfect representation of the chaotic clash of cultures here in town. Masses of pilgrims make their way across the bridge heading to the temple, while motorcycle and scooter horns scream as drivers force their way through the crowds. Hippies wander along blissed out in their own world, cows and bulls decide on a nap after arriving at the midway point, and monkeys opportunistically take advantage of the oblivious tourists. All the while Indian tourists are trying to get their picture taken by the Ganges in the middle of all this mayhem. It is complete insanity that brings me to my breaking point nearly every time I cross the bridge at 'rush hour'. But we have discovered beautiful spots to get away from the spiritually charged chaos and enjoy the river and the surrounding hills. We have taken advantage of this break to make some plans for the upcoming months. It has been quite easy here in India to hop from one bus or train to the next without much planning. Usually we only needed to plan out our next stop or two. Now we are making plans for Nepal and China, two new countries awaiting us in the next couple of months!! We've reunited with our friend Katie, who we started our travels with...and we head for the border of Nepal in just a few days. We will be setting off on a 3 week trek in the Himalayas, finally getting out and really stretching our legs!!

Nek Chand's Fantasy Rock Garden

Chandigarh is also home to Nek Chand's Fantasy Rock Garden, which supposedly runs a close second behind the Taj Mahal for most visited. Tucked back in a forested area just on the outskirts of the city, you truly enter a fantasy world when you wander through Nek Chand's 40 acre sculpture garden. A former road inspector, he collected waste materials from work sites and began clandestinely creating his sculpture garden in the forest where it would go unnoticed for 18 years. In 1975 the authorities discovered the site, but he eventually landed a salary and a team of 50 laborers to help him realize his visions that are now visited by some 5000 people daily. It is a fairytale world of waterfalls and gardens entered through small archways. Each section of the garden has a different theme unifying the area, from small scultures to mosaics. Porcelain pieces from plates, toilets, etc make colorful walls. Long walls of electrical outlet plastic casings intially decieve the eyes. My favorite were the sculptures of women and peacocks made from crushed glass bangles. Wonderful creations all made from recycled materials! And with so much trash being tossed around here, it is so wonderful to see what can be done with it when someone has a vision.

A little urban planning goes a long way

Also known as The Beautiful City, Chandigarh is the capital of the Indian states of Punjab and Haryana. With the partition of British India into the nations of India and Pakistan, the state of Punjab was also split between the two nations. The state's capital, Lahore, lied in Pakistan...so there was need for a new capital in the Indian state. A decision was made to build a new capital and Le Corbusier, a french architect, helped shape the future of this modern city. Unlike any other city in India, Chandigarh boasts many lush maintained gardens, walking and bike paths, and beautifully flowing traffic along with a great city bus service. While many travellers are supposedly turned off by this 'un-Indian' city, we relished the green space and the walking paths. It is a testimony to what a little bit (or a lot!) of planning can do...

Border Tension?

We couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit the India-Pakistan border for the theatrical border closing ceremony, despite the perpetual tension between the two neighboring countries. We really didn't know what to expect, but were surprised when we were hounded by jeep drivers fighting over us to catched a ride in their shared jeep. We started to realize this was quite a popular thing to do when visiting the area. However, we still were shocked when we were ushered into cement stands on the Indian side of the border (but quickly discovered a matching set on the Pakistani side) as if we were attending a sporting event. As a set of gates were opened, people raced towards the stands to get their seats. Although there was a huge crowd, I mused to myself that the stands would never fill and the Pakistani side was empty. Men and women were segregated, however foreigners are invited to the VIP section (closer to the border). Each side was blasting loud pop music trying to outdo their neighbor. The waiting quickly became quite tedious with the dueling music. Then young women were selected from the crowd for a flag relay. Four flags were unleashed on the swarming group of girls and teams ran them proudly along the road to the border and back, while the crowds cheered. Next came a street block party in which slightly older girls and women were invited down to dance to popular Hindi songs. It was as if each girl found herself the star of a Bollywood music video and was dancing her heart out! During these activities, the border guards were (curiously!) stretching and doing high kicks off in the background. Tim and I chuckled to ourselves wondering what they could possibly be stretching for! As the crowd was cleared from the road, there was hardly anywhere for them to go as the stands had completely filled. The Pakistani side did not boast the same sized crowds, however they had their fair share of proud citizens cheering on their guards also). The guards marched out in full regalia and thus the ceremony began. Broadcast over the speakers, one boarder guard from each side competed in a yelling match. However lasted the longest was celebrated by a rousing cheer from their 'home' stands. Several rounds of yelling gave way to a speedwalking march to the border gates (100ft or so). The two sides would make grimacing lunges at each other from behind a huge metal gate followed by a seried of high kicks and stomps that resembled more of a cheerleading competition than a border ceremony. The crowds ate up the exaggerated bluffs and cheered ecitedly for each charging border guard. Finally, the flags were lowered, raced back to the post in a group of speedwalking guards, and the border would then lay silent for the night....once the thousands in the stands fought their way back into town on the one lane highway.

World Religion 101

Continuing what is feeling like an intensive world religion course--interactive, complete with field trips and interviews. From Hindu temples, Muslim mosques, and Buddhist gompas, we made our way to the state of Punjab--home of the Sikhs. A religion born at the fault line of the Hindu and Muslim faiths which (I find) is a beautiful fusion of the two faiths. And for the field trip portion of our studies...we went to the Golden Temple, the holiest Sikh site and thus a major pilgrimage destination. We visited at various times of the day and night and always found a constant stream of pilgrims making their way along the marble walkway surrounding the large water tank from which golden temple radiates its beauty. During the day, the sun radiates off the golden dome and at night water reflections ripple across it. There is a constant stream of pilgrims bathing in the tank before entering the temple, while their holy scripture is read over loud speakers throughout the entire day. The beauty of it is that all are welcome, from all religions and faiths, to worship God equally.

What is freedom?

There was a photography exhibit on display back in Dhaka, Bangladesh that we really enjoyed that focused on the theme of freedom. This particular photographer displayed portraits of people from around the world and next to their portrait was a piece of paper in which they defined freedom. It was a beautiful exercise defining such a complex concept, and I would invite you all to consider how you would define freedom. I had felt so 'free' driving along in a car in the solitude of the Omani peninsula and strolling along wide open beaches without a soul around. And then we flew back to India and caught a train from Delhi to Amritsar on the Pakistani border....a nine hour train ride in a coach packed with people. After the sun set, the air cooled and a thunderstorm was brewing out on the horizon. Lightning flashed and flickered off in the distance as I hung out the doorway with the cool wind biting at my face. I felt overwhelmed by the freedom that the journey in India has brought us. The hassles of transportation all melted away as I stood there with the damp air dancing through my hair, the sound of the chugging train drumming in my ears, and our destination lying ahead under the storm clouds. It was a beautiful moment in this long journey of ours that reminded me of just how free this journey has made us and what that freedom has been teaching us. (I'm not sure I'm ready to define freedom, as I am still formulating what it means to me.)

Recharged and ready to go

Our original intention was just to spend a week visiting Dubai, but as we started to do more research, we realized just how much there was to see in the area...and how little time a week was! So, we packed the week full (as we have a tendency to do) darting around the UAE and up into the Omani peninsula. It was a welcome change of pace, a glimpse at another part of the world that is such a stark contrast to India. We left the region still in awe of all the money and modernity in Dubai and Abu Dhabi--man-made oases in the desert where camels and fishing boats have been replaced by sleek SUVs and sport cars. I knew it wasn't a place where I could stand to spend too much time, but valued the opportunity to experience it. Being able to venture out of the cities and find camels roaming about and local men out fishing enriched the experience and made the place seem a little more real. Driving through high red sand dunes gave us a glimpse of what the whole region once looked like.

Oman's Musandam Peninsula

What a hidden treasure! Cut off from the rest of Oman by the UAE, this mountainous, barren landscape is remote and inaccessible. A single ribbon of paved road traces its rocky cliffs right along the Persian Gulf with its beautiful blue-green waters crashing against a rocky coastline. It was late in the afternoon as we were arriving in Oman, the gray and tan rocks glowing in the afternoon sun that glittered off the water. A few cars cruised along the road, but the beach pullouts were mostly empty and we felt as if we had the whole peninsula to ourselves! We felt so free cruising along in our rental car, stopping wherever and whenever we pleased. And the best part of the peninsula isn't even explored by land....we had to get out in a boat to explore the rocky fjords that earned this area the title 'Norway of Arabia'. We cruised out through canals amongst the fjords in a traditional style boat or dhow. Lounging on the deck on pillows, we rocked wildly amongst the waves stirred by the constant wind. A chance to snorkel showed us a vibrant world that was a stark contrast to the barren rocky hillsides hovering just above the surface of the water. And the real treat was the playful dolphins that accompanied us several times on our return trip.

The car offered us another freedom. A chance to camp out under the stars in isolated canyons. We experienced a silence we have not known for a long time. The car horns and chaos of Indian cities was a world away in the still, silent nights we spent out on the Musandam Peninsula. They weren't the most comfortable night, as we weren't properly equipped for camping, but we couldn't pass up the opportunity to lay out under the stars in the cool night air....completely alone!

At home in Abu Dhabi

We had another wonderful opportunity to take a break from hotel rooms and stay with a friend while in Abu Dhabi. Being on the road for such an extended period, it is so nice to spend even just one night in the comforts of a home. No need to show a passport to check in, no struggling to track down the obscure hotel in the first place, chairs and tables to sit at...and homemade food (Mexican food, no less)! So, we got the grand 'guided tour' of Abu Dhabi and a chance to ask all of our questions from our short stint in the area to someone who had actually spent some time there. But more than a home to stay in, it is so wonderful to see a familiar face and catch up with a friend after being gone for so long. So, while the e.mails back home might be lacking...and we are horrible about sending postcards (our apologies!)...and the phone calls are few and far between...we think of everyone frequently and do indeed miss everyone incredibly! We like to think of it as carrying you all with us on our journey to far away lands.

Fried chicken and white bread

Dubai is certainly no place for budget travelers with all of its 5 star hotels and top end eateries. So, while certainly not budget by Indian standards, we still sought out the budget options. Our hotel in Dubai is frequented by African traders, so the majority of the folks we past in the halls gave us a slightly quizzical look as we strolled in and out of what was to us a 'luxury' hotel compared to most of our budget digs in India. There was a restaurant in the hotel, so we swung into it one morning to grab breakfast before heading out for the day. Through the doorway, I see a man putting together a plate with fried chicken and half a loaf of white bread. I found this to be quite curious. Then I peered around the corner, and 4-5 tables were filled with Africans feasting on fried chicken for breakfast. So, I asked the fellow about getting food to which he replied, 'no food'. Fair enough. We really weren't interested in fried chicken for breakfast anyway. So, we headed out to the street and found a stall that served some familiar Indian favorites!