Floating the Li River on a Bamboo Raft

Another epic train ride (we opted for a sleeper this time! glorious!) brought us to southern China to the heart of its karst landscape. And what better way to experience the endless limestone hills covered with lush green vegetation....than to raft lazily through them on a bamboo raft. Of course, this all perhaps sounds a bit more romantic than it turned out to be. Rafting the wide lazy Li River is the star attraction in the region, so the touts know exactly what you came to do...I can't tell you the number of times we heard a stacatto "Hello! Bamboo!" yelled in our direction, again and again and again! We booked a trip through our hostel to avoid the countless touts. We ended up on a 'bamboo raft' made out of PVC pipe, almost resembling the real deal! Along with several other backpackers we settled into our bamboo seats, and at this point the scenery really did steal the show, and you started to just ignore the other rafts sharing the river with you. Crazy formations jutting up right along the river's edge, a bumpy blanket of green stretching out in every direction. The murky water a sign of the daily afternoon showers that keep the region so lush and vibrant. It was a beautiful afternoon drifting down the river...even if it wasn't quite a 'bamboo raft'!

China Photos

We have been uploading our photos to a picasa site (www.picasaweb.google.com/motionsintheoceans2), but they are unedited...the whole messy lot is up for your viewing pleasure. So, if you want some glimpses of Tibet and China, that's where you can find them! Enjoy!!

A stroll through the market (in Xian)

We were captivated by the Muslim quarter in Xian, with its open air market and tiny restaurants that kept us fed for less than a dollar a meal.In the evenings, streets are a writhing blob of pedestrians being pushed out of the way by electric bicycles, scooters, and fruit sellers with neat stacks of their goods stacked in their cart. Vendor after vendor proudly displays their dried fruits and awaits any potential customer. Scewers of meats and vegetables are on display to lure you into the restaurants. Men sit out in front of their shops with their shirts pulled up on their big round bellies as if trying to emulate the laughing Buddha.Women fan themselves wildly to alleviate the heat. By day, umbrellas dot any sidewalk from a birds-eye view as people hide from the sun's intense rays. Perched on stools around low tables, bawdy games of mah jong and cards help pass the heat of the afternoon as men slam cards down on the table and draw in crowds of spectators. Chinese tourists in short skirts, high heels, and tank tops (making me feel like a prude, after our time in India and Nepal where modesty reigns!) wander the streets hopping from shop to shop picking up kitchy knick knacks. We spent a good chunk of our time wandering the lanes and enjoying the bustling activity.

A different kind of tourist

One afternoon we rented bicycles and cruised around the old fort walls of Xi'an. On rickety old bikes, we clattered along the wide cobblestone surface of the walls with views of the sprawling city in every direction. The walls told the story of a time centuries earlier in the city's history...however the skyscrapers towering just beyond the walls speak of another time. We lost ourselves in the confines of the walls though enjoying the warm afternoon as the sun drifted lower in the hazy sky. I was making my usual frequent photo stops along our 8 mile circuit, and at the midway point we realized we only had 30 minutes left of our 100 minute rental period. So, we got serious about our biking and rattled our way back to the starting point, and I had to restrain myself and forego a few photo ops! During our curcuit I was struck by how carefree our travels feel here in China. We were out biking amidst Chinese and foreign tourists alike, all in great spirits enjoying the outing. After our time spent in more developing countries in the subcontinent where you are constantly surrounded by poverty and begging, it is harder for me to let go and enjoy the 'extracurricular' activities when it often feels quite indulgent. (I know, I know...we were only renting bikes!) It is just refreshing to be in a setting where the bulk of tourists are actually local and your activities are no different than the ones many other people are enjoying. Of course, we still flee from the giant Chinese tour groups, but people are generally less interested in what we are doing and busy with activities of their own.

Welcome to China!

We have been in a utter daze since the moment we arrived in Xi'an, our first 'China' experience...and it hasn't left us yet! After 7 months in the subcontinent (India, Bangladesh, Nepal), it feels as if we were whisked into the future in a time machine. China has been a fascinating experience so far. Once we arrived in 'civilization', it feels like we haven't escaped it for a moment in our 10 days in mainland China. An on-the-go, consumer driven society that is climbing fast has certainly captured our attention. We still opt for the small open air markets instead of the huge, flashy shopping malls. We still see the cities by foot rather than the nice, clean taxis. And we still eat at the modest eateries instead of the plethora of sleek restaurants. Chinese tourism abounds! Everywhere we go, we are the odd ones out without the tour guide with flag and megaphone in hand, matching hats and AC tour bus! Of course, the ubiquitous Chinese tour group has a bit to do with our stops in major tourist destinations...
I am still getting used to seeing everything imaginable scewered and ready to be dropped in a vat of hot oil for a quick meal--eel, snake, intestines, frog, etc, etc. Today we wandered through a market that had dog, rabbit, duck, and rat to name a few delicacies. The images seem to haunt me throughout the rest of the day, but certainly an eye-opener watching people shuffle indifferently past the small cages. I'll stick to the plant markets where there are heaps of new, fascinating veggies and fruits I've never seen before. Outside the cities, it feels as if every spare strip of land is being used for some food item--fruit orchards, corn fields, and every vegetable imaginable can be found in neat little rows proliferating in the hot, moist climate. There is a huge population to be fed, so not much land is spared. The countryside is a stark contrast to the concrete jungle of the urban landscape, but the Chinese have certainly perfected the perfectly romantic parks in their cities. And the packaging! Everything is tidily sealed in several layers of plastic, from the ubiquitous noodle soups (aka ramen) with their 10 condiment packets inside...to shrink wrapped plates and bowls in restaurants that you can be rest-assured that they are clean! As our intention behind these travels were to see how people are living in different parts of the world, China has certainly taken us by surprise and we are quite intrigued to see the big cities and explore some more! Good, bad, or somewhere in between...it is fascinating to get a glimpse of life in the world's most populous country that is on track to become one of the world's most powerful countries.

High altitude train ride

We were blown away as we were dropped off in front of the new Lhasa train station. It felt more like we were about to enter an airport than a train station I am accustomed to! In 2006, the train route to Lhasa opened (ahead of schedule!), connecting Tibet with the rest of China...or better yet, the rest of China with Tibet. The train was packed for the 2000km train journey (and it continued on past our destination for perhaps another 2000km). We had booked a 'hard seat' for the 34 hour journey. Our options were hard seat, hard sleeper, and soft sleeper. Our rash decision was based on a quick glance at the time table. Train leaves at 10:30....arrives at 20:30. Our quick calculation told us that we could easily handle a hard seat for a 10 hour journey. Once we were committed, we realized that we would be arriving at 20:30 the next day...and were in for the long haul cruising across the Tibetain plateau. But when our bodies began to feel achy or we were feeling anxious to climb off the train, we simply had to think about our 9 hour journey in the luggage rack of the second class unreserved car in India, and our circumstances seemed quite luxurious. The train was sleek and clean and the huge windows captivated our attention for most of the ride. We chugged slowly over permafrost amidst snowy peaks and grazing yaks. Fluffy white clouds appeared to be within reach and the setting sun shimmered its golden hue off irregularly shaped lakes. The whole first day, we saw virtually no people and the landscape was largely untouched. As the sun came up the next morning, we began to encounter civilization again. Villages became cities, and barren land was replaced by perfectly square agricultural plots...the browns and grays of the landscape had become bright shades of green. The day and a half we spent on the drain slipped through our fingers. While I must admit we were hugely relieved to climb off the train, it was a beautiful experience to bask in more Tibetan landscape.

Culture clash

It was anything but subtle, our transition from the desolate plains of the plateau into the futuristic cities of Xigatse and Lhasa (the two largest Tibetan cities). Sleek sidewalks and sparkling new hotel buildings hide the beautiful traditional houses that are now corraled in the 'Old Town' sections of the cities. Sleek cars quickly replaced the noisy tractors and old motorcycles. However, we spent our time in the 'old town' areas and still encountered plenty of people in traditional clothing, spinning prayer wheels, and bearing beautiful gentle smiles. We felt fortunate to have had the opportunity to experience Tibet when we did, as the railway line that opened in 2006 is certainly bringing in Chinese tourists in drones and further changing the urban landscape. In the evening in Lhasa there is a fountain and light show in front of the Potala Palace, the former residence of the Dalai Lama and seat of the Tibetan government. Impressively lit, the palace stands nobly on the hillside, while tourists gather by the thousands in the expansive square across the street. Music blasting from speakers, lights, and water all pull your attention away from the controversies of Tibet's history and encourage whimsical photos in front of a surreal backdrop. Although the people watching was certainly amusing, and the view breathtaking, we felt uneasy amidst the circus atmosphere intentionally created. All the while, Tibetans are walking around the palace (performing 'kora' a type of meditation walking around a sacred site)...further accentuating the culture clash we were witnessing. When we visited the monasteries and palaces during the daytime, our visits were rushed with little information...much what we were expecting. In every respect it was an abbreviated glimpse at the Tibetan culture, with little room for questions.

The first true language barrier...or rather wall

Our travels thus far have taken us through areas where english is widely spoken and there was little incentive to learn the language when everyone finds it easier to communicate in english. We have been feeling quite guilty that we never made much progress with hindi or nepali...but some mandarin basics are going to be a must as we have been encountering very little english. (Of course, people are speaking tibetan in this region...but we are only here for a week so we have only picked up the basic greetings). Meals are usually the most fun, especially since Tim and I opt to eat in the hole-in-the-wall restaurants with no english menu, and perhaps no menu at all. In one restaurant, the woman started pulling items out of the fridge and we selected our ingredients through frosty, plastic bags. Greens-yes! noodles-YES! eggs-yes! unidentifiable meat-(meaghan-NO!!....tim-YES!!) Lots of pointing, hand motions and nods has led to some delicious meals! You never know what it will look like once it has all been combined, but that is part of the excitement of it all! So, we have been studying our numbers, greetings, and basic questions to alleviate some of these issues in the future...and to try not to be such the ugly american tourist expecting everyone to speak english!

Big, burly...and attracting everyone's attention!

That's Tim's beard. It has been the main attraction since we set foot in Tibet...and I imagine it will attract even more attention in mainland China. A popular comment is 'Yak! Same, same!' as the person strokes an invisible beard. More often we stroll past some people and their conversation ceases that second they catch a glimpse of Tim's beard. Then some wispers follow inevitably resulting in giggles and sometimes all out laughter. Everyone is so taken aback by his beard...followed by curiousities about it. I can almost hear the thoughts running through their heads, 'is it real?! how did he grow that?! how long did that take?! did you see how BIG it was?! so much hair!!' It is inevitable walking around a town or city that Tim will get several comments, giggles, or thumbs up! My favorite situation was when we were walking around the grounds of the Panchen Lama's summer palace. It was a nicely shaded area and underneath a fruit tree, a monk was having a picnic with some friends. When he spots us, he motions us over to take a seat and join them. As we approach, he motions for Tim to come to his side. Tim squats down next to him and the monk reaches up and starts stroking Tim's beard with a look of awe on his face. He gives Tim an enthusiastic thumbs up and returns to stroking his beard again. His eyes wander to Tim's arms and his fascination with the beard shifts to the thick, light hair standing up on his arms...which he stroked lightly in the shade of the fruit tree. After a spell of exchanging smiles and thumbs up, we wandered on leaving the monk with a huge smile on his face. On another occasion visiting a monastery, Tim has his beard grabbed by two monks as if they were milking a cow. The beard has been in the works for 4 1/2 months now...and he wants to see how it looks at 6 months. We will see how long it lasts if he continues to attract so much attention!

Jumping through hoops and red tape

Given the stories we had heard, coordinating a tour to Tibet from Kathmandu fell into our laps quite easily. Within our first day, we found the coordinating agency and set the ball rolling to get a 'tourist group visa' for Tibet. The only way you are allowed into Tibet is on an organized tour with a guide. This is not our preferred mode of travel but it was our only option...so we jumped on the opportunity. Our visa for Tibet is not valid for mainland China, so we will have to go through the process again (aka shell out more money!) when we continue into China. We piled onto the bus along with the others in our group of 30 and cruised out of Kathmandu. From the border, we leapt into our caravan of land cruiser jeeps. Quite different from our jeep experience in India, there were only 4 of us per jeep (plus our silent Tibetan driver who seemed to only know how to say, "tomorrow!" which was the only response we would get). Our tour was indeed the budget tour as we were herded along and our guide was extremely apathetic...only passing along the most pertinent information. But nothing could dampen the experience of cruising along the vast, desolate landscape of the Tibetan Plateau. Watching the sun rise and cast shadows over the rolling peaks we were driving through, driving through small villages of matching earthen houses (painted white with black and red accents), watching locals hearding sheep while thumbing through their prayer beads, and visiting countless monasteries. It is a magical place full of rich colors against a drab, yet captivating landscape. A culture hanging on by a string that we only got the quickest glimpse of under a guided hand. However, we found this glimpse to be extraordinary...and certainly better than no glimpse at all!

Ode to Dal Bhat

Heaping mounds of white steaming rice, lentils soaking in their thick bath, greens marching in straight from the garden, potatoes harvested with care. Oh, dal bhat! Oh, rice and lentils! You sustained us over many a mile, filling our bellies and fueling our legs. Oh dal bhat! Your heaping mounds mirror the snowy mountain peaks adorned with whispy clouds. Oh dal bhat! Whistles from the pressure cooker tell us you are nearly ready. We anxiously await our second serving then battle with you to clear the plate. Oh dal bhat! Your heaping plate, a familiar sight and taste that we came to depend on. Oh dal bhat...if we never eat you again....

Worms, germs, and sore knees

After our trek on the Annapurna Circuit, I ended up making a (non-emergency) trip to the hospital because I had something living in my gut that the antibiotics just weren't taking care of. A stool sample revealed I had a parasite and as soon as I started taking the medication prescribed, things cleared right up....and I was literally eating everything in sight since the little bugger seemed to be getting most of my sustenance! About a week into the Everest trek, I finished my 'antiameobic' drugs, and within a few days I was experiencing stomach cramping and sulfur burps that could knock someone out! Of course, this all coincided with the most insane day of trekking. We set out in the morning to cross Cho La pass, which would drop us into the next valley where we would continue towards Everest Base Camp. There was light snow that morning as we started out and hiked across a massive glacier still carving out the valley. We decided that the snow shouldn't deter us as the trail was easy to follow and it would be easy enough to turn back if the snow picked up and we were concerned about our abilities to follow the trail. After a couple of hours of mild climbing, we reach a saddle and could see a series of cairns marking the trail down a rocky field on the other side of the saddle. Although there was a doubt in the back of my head because most of the passes we have encountered have been adorned with prayer flags and rock walls with mantras inscribed on them, I quickly pushed that aside eager to head down the other side...out of the snow and wind. The climb down was a challenge in every sense, we were scrambling down over big boulders that were wet and icy. The further we climbed, the more my stomach cramped and the weather wasn't breaking. Katie's knees were screaming at her and our friend Gary's knee was seizing up too. We were all picturing ourselves curled up in a nice warm dining room of a guesthouse in the next village, which (according to our guidebook) was a short walk down the valley once past the rock scrambling. My posture was becoming more and more doubled as we continued to follow the trail with no sign of a village. Twice we asked direction, inquiring about the village we were headed for. With confused looks, both times we were pointed back in the direction we had just come from. We assumed we had not communicated well and had been misunderstood and continued further down the valley on a trail that obviously got quite a bit of use. The villages we past through were desolate as most people take their yaks up to grazing grounds at higher elevations for the summer. Finally, based on some villages mentioned by an old man Tim had spoken with, we realized that we were actually heading down the opposite side of the same valley that we had originally hiked up....and we still had 2 more hours to hike to the next village that had a lodge. The snow had turned to rain as we dropped in elevation, and we were all damp...physically and in spirits. At some point Tim insisted upon taking my bag. I suppose I did look that pitiful! With his bag on his back, he threw my bag on his front, and still hiked along much stronger than I could. We finally stumbled upon a modest guesthouse run by the most amazing Nepali woman who became our surrogate mother for the next day. As I stumbled into her home, she quickly ushered me to a room and helped me out of my shoes. There was much concern initially about what my problem was...if my head was giving me trouble, it's a sure sign of altitude sickness. A stomach ache isn't as much of a concern... Lots of gesturing eased her mind that I wasn't struggling with altitude sickness and she proceeded to tuck me in with 5 comforters and gingerly tucked a bottle of hot water in next to me under my mountain of blankets. She constantly checked in on me bringing me tea and soup...while we mostly communicated with smiles and gestures. She also kept busy feeding and accomodating the rest of our crew. We have never been so happy on the trail to encounter a guesthouse...and never so fortunate to have the most lovely woman awaiting our arrival as on the day we needed it the most!

As it turned out, we had not quite made it to the actual pass, so we dropped back down into the valley we had started from probably no more than 30 minutes from where we had started out that day. The following day it continued to pour rain at lower elevations...which meant heaps of snow up high. All in all, it worked out well for us that we dropped down further and weren't stuck in the snow. As for my affliction, we determined (based on my symptoms) that I had giardia. Tim ended up hiking 3-4 hours roundtrip to a small local hospital to get the medication that I needed that cleared things up in 24 hours and we were back on the trail with an arsenal of stories under our belts. (Tim can proudly report that the amazed lodge owner commented on his quick trip that he made it faster than "Sherpa time"!) Everyone (except Tim!) got to enjoy a rest day to recover from our big adventure attempting to cross the pass.

Everest Marathon

Our hike towards Everest Base Camp coincidentally coincided with the Everest Marathon. The marathon is on the anniversary of Edmond Hillary and Tenzig Norgay's ascent on May 29, 1953. On a crisp clear morning (after a couple of rainy days), we set off heading up the trail at our normal time. We all knew about the marathon, but as we were enjoying the mountain views in the valley...thoughts of the marathon drifted to the back of our minds. Climbing a steep hillside, we were panting for breath and taking frequent breaks. Then suddenly we spotted a few runners that were branching off on another trail at the top of the hillside. A chill ran through me, as I know the challenges of a marathon and can't even begin to imagine running a marathon that begins above 17,000 ft and descends to 11,000 ft - starting on a glacier and descending along rocky, snowy, and muddy trail where the runners must dodge the yak trains and porters during their 26.2 miles! Suddenly I forgot about my struggles climbing the hillside and began barrelling up the hillside to cheer on the runners. Between gasps (attempting to catch our breath), we screamed and clapped for these amazing runners. First the Nepali runner charged through, focused on the trail and their running. As we continued up the trail, we eventually ran into the international contingent...who appeared to be much more appreciative of the cheering as they seemed to be searching for more distractions! In the marathons that I have run, there are frequent water stations and plenty of support personel. In the 6 or so miles of the trail we hiked, we passed one water station...and you were pretty much on your own for a while if you were to slip and fall. We watched runner leap off the trail into the snow to get out of the way of a train of 5-6 yaks and patiently wait for them to pass. The obstacles were great in this race, but there were only 150 runners that could boast that they completed the Everest Marathon. It certainly made any of our aches, pains, or shortness of breath seem trivial witnessing the feat these runners were accomplishing!

Immersed in the mountains...again

It was late in the 'season' when we began the Everest trek, which means the clear days are waning...and snow and rain become a regular part of your days. While it was trying at times, when the snow was blasting us in the face or the rain would not let up....our clear days were so spectacular. The Himalayas are a land of superlatives, every day of hiking revealing dramatic waterfalls or peaks, glaciers or endless terraces. Everyday you feel the immensity of the place you awake to find yourself in. Just when I thought we had experienced the most amazing views and nothing else could possibly live up to that experiece...a few days later we would find ourselves immersed in the most humbling and breathtaking setting. Sunrise became my most savored moment of the day. We would force ourselves out of our sleeping bags into the crisp, cold morning air knowing what magical views were awaiting us. If we made it out early enough, we would huddle in the stillness of the valley in anticipation of the first rays of sunshine that would set the highest peaks ablaze in a golden burst. The sun works quickly bathing the frozen valley and us in its warm rays before rising high up into the sky. The solitude and stillness of the early morning hours were always a treasure and simply the best way to start out your day. Inevitably after a day of snow, we would have a perfectly clear day with a dusting (or more!) of snow turning the drab landscape a brilliant white sparkling in the sun. And after two months of trekking in this magnificent landscape, I still haven't gotten my fill because every valley beckons with everchanging views and soaring peaks that tug at your heart and make you feel so alive!

The long road

Since we had the time and always feel the need to stray from the most trodden tourist routes, we opted to hike 'in and out' of the trek to the Everest Base Camp...instead of taking a flight in to the jumping off point that most people take advantage of these days to economize on their time in the mountains. We were allotting 30 days to hike in from the west, take a side trip up a parallel valley and then cross over a pass to the valley that most people follow to get a glimpse of Everest. After an amazing 3 weeks in the Annapurna Region, I was sure that the Everest trek would fall short of my expectations after our first trek. But, the Himalayas had much more in store for us...and while trying to find the words to describe the scenery and the views without making it sound mundane and repetitive is quite the challenge. Everyday was rewarding in its own right. We crossed countless passes (low saddles, really...but they still requied excrutiating climbs!) as we worked our way in from the west working against the contour lines on our map instead of with them. We cut across the valleys in endless climbs and descents, amidst sunny mornings and afternoon showers. This stretch of the trail doesn't see anywhere near the traffic that the ascent towards Everest Base Camp does, so while there are still plenty of lodges and guesthouses, the villages still have a life of their own. The greetings felt a bit more authentic and it felt a bit more like the Nepal we had come to see.
The porters that we played leapfrog with were a constant reminder of the demands of the tourist industry. Young men (and on our hike out, the crew was even younger...sometimes no more than 10 or so) carrying in cases of beer and snacks. The loads defy the laws of gravity, and it seems impossible that the small Nepali frame with bulging calf muscles would be capable of carrying such a load over such terrain. Yet their slow, small steps are far more certain than ours and they would push on with the sturdiness of the yaks we would pass along the way. We were in the region where the Sherpa people live, the famed Nepalis who have been the driving force behind countless expeditions to Everest and many of the neighboring peaks. Hiking on the same trail as these men (and sometimes women) was ever humbling and made our small packs seem laughable.
The hike back out, we retraced our steps out to the west. We only saw two other trekkers over the 50 miles of trail. But the trail was full of mule trains and porters bringing in loads to restock the lodges at the season's end. People reacted in shock when we told them we hiked the extra 50 miles in and out...but for us the extra miles made the views of the high peaks that much more rewarding!