Sunday, June 28, 2009

Culture clash

It was anything but subtle, our transition from the desolate plains of the plateau into the futuristic cities of Xigatse and Lhasa (the two largest Tibetan cities). Sleek sidewalks and sparkling new hotel buildings hide the beautiful traditional houses that are now corraled in the 'Old Town' sections of the cities. Sleek cars quickly replaced the noisy tractors and old motorcycles. However, we spent our time in the 'old town' areas and still encountered plenty of people in traditional clothing, spinning prayer wheels, and bearing beautiful gentle smiles. We felt fortunate to have had the opportunity to experience Tibet when we did, as the railway line that opened in 2006 is certainly bringing in Chinese tourists in drones and further changing the urban landscape. In the evening in Lhasa there is a fountain and light show in front of the Potala Palace, the former residence of the Dalai Lama and seat of the Tibetan government. Impressively lit, the palace stands nobly on the hillside, while tourists gather by the thousands in the expansive square across the street. Music blasting from speakers, lights, and water all pull your attention away from the controversies of Tibet's history and encourage whimsical photos in front of a surreal backdrop. Although the people watching was certainly amusing, and the view breathtaking, we felt uneasy amidst the circus atmosphere intentionally created. All the while, Tibetans are walking around the palace (performing 'kora' a type of meditation walking around a sacred site)...further accentuating the culture clash we were witnessing. When we visited the monasteries and palaces during the daytime, our visits were rushed with little information...much what we were expecting. In every respect it was an abbreviated glimpse at the Tibetan culture, with little room for questions.

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