Border Tension?

We couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit the India-Pakistan border for the theatrical border closing ceremony, despite the perpetual tension between the two neighboring countries. We really didn't know what to expect, but were surprised when we were hounded by jeep drivers fighting over us to catched a ride in their shared jeep. We started to realize this was quite a popular thing to do when visiting the area. However, we still were shocked when we were ushered into cement stands on the Indian side of the border (but quickly discovered a matching set on the Pakistani side) as if we were attending a sporting event. As a set of gates were opened, people raced towards the stands to get their seats. Although there was a huge crowd, I mused to myself that the stands would never fill and the Pakistani side was empty. Men and women were segregated, however foreigners are invited to the VIP section (closer to the border). Each side was blasting loud pop music trying to outdo their neighbor. The waiting quickly became quite tedious with the dueling music. Then young women were selected from the crowd for a flag relay. Four flags were unleashed on the swarming group of girls and teams ran them proudly along the road to the border and back, while the crowds cheered. Next came a street block party in which slightly older girls and women were invited down to dance to popular Hindi songs. It was as if each girl found herself the star of a Bollywood music video and was dancing her heart out! During these activities, the border guards were (curiously!) stretching and doing high kicks off in the background. Tim and I chuckled to ourselves wondering what they could possibly be stretching for! As the crowd was cleared from the road, there was hardly anywhere for them to go as the stands had completely filled. The Pakistani side did not boast the same sized crowds, however they had their fair share of proud citizens cheering on their guards also). The guards marched out in full regalia and thus the ceremony began. Broadcast over the speakers, one boarder guard from each side competed in a yelling match. However lasted the longest was celebrated by a rousing cheer from their 'home' stands. Several rounds of yelling gave way to a speedwalking march to the border gates (100ft or so). The two sides would make grimacing lunges at each other from behind a huge metal gate followed by a seried of high kicks and stomps that resembled more of a cheerleading competition than a border ceremony. The crowds ate up the exaggerated bluffs and cheered ecitedly for each charging border guard. Finally, the flags were lowered, raced back to the post in a group of speedwalking guards, and the border would then lay silent for the night....once the thousands in the stands fought their way back into town on the one lane highway.