Tilicho Lake

As I mentioned before there are many opportunities for side trips from the Annapurna Circuit...and we found the side trips to offer the most amazing glimpses of the mountains. Our hike to Tilicho Lake (the supposed highest lake in the world) at 16,500 ft served as an acclimitization hike before tackling the pass. We were hardly alone on the trail, but it did climb away from the string of villages that line the circuit, and it really felt like we were out backpacking (still minus a tent..) for the first time after more than a week of trekking. We climbed steeply up through a valley growing ever closer to brilliant white snowy peaks that stood boldly against a perfect blue sky. The camera snapped away wildly, as I tried again and again to capture the tremendous setting that we were immersed in. When fluffy clouds started building in the valley, it felt like we could climb aboard to catch a ride up the valley instead of following the narrow path that we could see continuing along the steep valley walls off in the distance. It was a lovely hike, until we reached the landslide zones...the path cut right across a steep scree slope. I suddenly realized I am developing a fear of heights and my steps were hardly discernable. Tim patiently waited as my heart pounded in my chest worse than during the climbs we have done. My muscles seized up in my legs and I held my breath with each step of the steepest parts hoping it would hold. My fears were obviously unjustified as trekkers made their way in and out of the valley daily, but there was no way to convince myself that there was no need to worry! And all I could think as we hiked in was that I was going to have to repeat it all hiking out the following day. We spent the night at a base camp lodge and started out early the next day, just as the sun was slowly reaching the valley. First the peaks were lit with a small golden strip of sunlight that creeped down into the valley. The trail again unraveled in front of us, climbing steeply and then finishing in with a series of switchbacks to reach the lake. My body was fighting me and the climb was proving to be too much of a challenge. I sent Tim on to the lake and savored my proximity to the mountains on my slow return hike. Tim picked up the pace without me and darted up to the frozen lake, where he was greeted by raging, biting winds. Donning all his layers, he spent 15 minutes basking in the environs with the mountains seemingly at arm's reach before the cold got the best of him and he retreated to a lower elevation.